Büsingen - 2006-05-20
Büsingen - 2006-05-20
by Hugh Wallis
Text and all photographs © 2006, Hugh Wallis - All Rights Reserved
While changing planes in Zürich I had a 22 hour layover which I took
advantage of, in part, to visit the German enclave of Büsingen - that is a part
of Germany that is entirely surrounded by Swiss territory, separated from "the
mainland" by a small stretch of land that is less than 700m wide at its
narrowest (that part being the road between points 1 and 2 on the map below).
There are a number of web sites about Büsingen but I found them all rather
unsatisfactory as none of them gave me a really good picture of "what it is
like" with everything displayed in relation to everything else. I therefore
decided to do my best to record as much detail as possible on my trip in the
hope that I can provide such a picture for others interested in this territorial
oddity.
To set the stage I have provided two maps - one from Microsoft Autoroute
2006 (© Microsoft Corporation), marked up with key points (and the GPS recorded track of my car's
movements - in blue). All the numbered points are recorded in more detail below.
Each such point is a "hot spot" in that, if you click on it, it will take you to
the relevant part of this page. Hitting the "Back" button in your browser will
then return you to the map. The spots are numbered in the order that I visited
them so you can get a bit of an idea what my trip was like. Unfortunately for
much of the visit it was raining (the only wet period of the day sadly) and so
despite my best efforts to keep the water off the camera lens, some of the
photos have suffered from that - maybe it just adds a sense of realism to the
whole thing. I like to think so!!
This map is a topographical map of the same area which should help to provide
some more context to understand it
The following are the photos I took at each of the numbered points in the
first map above - in each case click on the thumbnails to see the full size
picture.
Location 1
|
View of the Swiss border post from Germany, looking westwards |
Location 2
|
Border marker in the middle of the intersection |
|
Intersection looking eastwards - the house at the top of the hill is the
Swiss border post at location 1 |
|
Intersection looking north eastwards towards Dörflingen (village in the
background) |
Location 3
|
Border stone number 1 in a private garden on the riverfront - taken from
the river bank, outside of the property (looking north westwards) |
|
Zoom in (from the same angle) |
|
Looking north eastwards |
|
Same angle - as you can see the private home is all closed up - it looks
like it might be a riverside retreat rather than occupied full time. |
|
Looking eastwards along the Rhine from the same location. the border
marker is to the left behind the stone wall |
|
View across the river - the markers in the water appear to be navigation
markers and have nothing to do with the border. |
|
Since no-one was around I summoned up the courage to hop over the gate
and get some shots from another angle. This is looking south westwards. |
|
Slightly wider angle |
|
Across the river (i.e. southwards) from the garden. |
|
Same but from closer to the stone |
|
The Swiss face of the stone |
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The German face of the stone |
|
The west and south faces of the stone |
|
The "other" stone |
|
Both stones - looking south westwards |
|
There is a track way running parallel with the river to the north of the
property - from there you can see the stone through what looks almost like a
deliberately cut out hole in the trees/bushes - this is looking southwards
across the river. Sorry it's a bit blurred - not enough light so a slow
exposure with no means of steadying the camera. |
|
Looking westwards towards the house (on the left) - with some Swiss cows
on the right |
|
This track is popular cycle track - despite the rain (evidenced by the
drops on my lens) - there were many of them out on this day. This sign is
just behind where I had stood to take the picture of the cows. |
|
Now you see it in context |
|
As I drove back up the hill (towards the intersection that is location
2) I got a good view of the property again. |
|
Maybe a better view? |
Location G
Those who know me also know that I enjoy geocaching. The location marked G is
that of the only geocache (currently) located in the Büsingen enclave. It is
called
Hochrhy (I don't know why. Update 2006-05-25: I do now - a colleague has
provided this explanation). To see more information click on
this link - you
can see my logs on that site under the name "Geofellas". I successfully
found it during this visit.
Location 4
|
Driving into the village there is a small lay-by with an information
board and a replica (made of metal and placed on a slant in the ground) of
the border marker on the right hand (north) side of the road. |
|
The replica, looking south eastwards. Clearly erected in the last few
years. |
Location 5
|
In the centre of the village is the main square with municipal buildings
and the Post Office. These are the (infamous) two telephone booths, one
connected to the Swiss phone system and one to the German system. This is
looking north eastwards |
|
The Post Office is at the back (north side) of the square - this photo
is looking north eastwards |
|
And this is from the other (east) end of the same building, looking
north westwards. |
|
Close up of the Post Office entrance, clearly showing the two postal
codes above the door. Unfortunately, being a Saturday afternoon, it was
closed when I was there and so I was unable to buy stamps and send postcards
which I had hoped to do. |
|
Going round the back of the building there was this note, for the Swiss
mail service, on the back door. |
|
Looking south along the eastern side of the square you get the
impression from the sign that there is no fun allowed in Büsingen. You also
get the sense of dual identity from the Swiss flag in the window across the
road. |
|
Another view of the main square looking north westwards from the south
side of the main road. You can now see that the other side of the sign
indicates that you can actually have fun in Büsingen, just only in certain
areas. |
|
A more "straight on" view taken from just a little bit to the west of
the last photo. This clearly shows the location of the two phone booths. |
|
Looking west along the main street, from the same spot. |
Location 6
|
Heading out towards the west we encounter another border marker. This is
on the north side of the road. |
|
From another angle - looking south eastwards. Note the right angle lines
on the top, indicating that the border makes a turn here. Only ¼ of the
stone is actually in Switzerland. |
Location 7
|
Another marker - on the north side of the road. |
|
And again (looking south westwards) |
Location 8
|
This is on the south east corner of the intersection - people waiting
for the bus that stops on the road in Germany possibly stand in Switzerland
while doing so. Photo is looking south eastwards. |
|
Closeup - looking north eastwards. |
|
Looking south westwards |
Location 9
|
Another marker, on the north side of the road - photo looking eastwards
|
|
Close up showing the line clearly marking the bend in the border |
|
Looking westwards |
Location 10
|
After looping around the south west section of the enclave I drove back
into the village. Here is a view of the main street and intersection -
petrol station on the left. Photo is looking eastwards. |
|
Prices are posted in both EUR and CHF (the ISO code for Swiss Francs is
CHF - Sfr. seems, however, to be more commonly used for general commerce -
similar to the use of $ and £ etc.). |
Location 11
|
I then did a circuit along the road that runs in Switzerland around the
northern perimeter of the enclave. This location is where it re-enters
Germany. This is the only location where I saw a noticeable change in
road surface between Switzerland and the enclave. This shot is looking south
westwards. |
|
Swiss post, border marker - looking north westwards. |
|
Close up of the border marker at this location |
|
The other two sides |
Location 12
|
On my way out of the town I had a second attempt at spotting the marker
where the border turns north - I found it here and pushed the long grass
around it down to get a good photo. |
|
Note that this marker is an odd shape (5 sided) the only one I found
with that cross section |
|
Looking up the track that runs just inside Germany to the north - you
can see other border markers further up the track, |
|
Another view up the track, zoomed in a bit. |
Location 13
|
Between location 12 and the "in the road" marker (location 2), on the
south side of the road, photo is looking eastwards. Oops - tilted the camera
while trying to keep the rain off the lens. You can see the intersection
(location 2 - where the car is) and the Swiss border post (location 1) in
the distance. I think this gives a good feeling for just how close Büsingen
is to NOT being an enclave. That section of road is just less than 700m
long. |
|
Closer up - same direction |
|
Very close up - looking north eastwards - note line etched in top of
stone. |
|
From the other side |
Location 14
|
Actually this is taken from west of location 14 - a view up the hill to
the main Swiss/German border - the building is the Swiss border post |
|
It was all closed up so I parked on the south side of the road just to
the east of the building and took this photo looking north westwards. |
|
Crossed the road and took this one looking south eastwards. |
|
From Germany, looking into Switzerland - westwards. Farewell to
Büsingen, nestled in the valley below. |
About 1km to the east of here was the German frontier check point - I was all
ready to take photos of it on approach but the battery died on my camera before
I could do so. I was glad that it had at least lasted this long.
I hope you enjoyed this photo essay - please send any comments or question to
hugh (at) our-own-home.com
Thank you
Hochrhy -
"Hochrhy" means "Hochrhein" in the local dialect. "Hochrhein" is the name of
the Rhine section between Bodensee and Basel. Other sections are "Alpenrhein"
(the most upper part), "Oberrhein" (northern from Basel), "Mittelrhein" (a very
scenic part where the famous "Loreley" is located), and "Niederrhein".